Secrets of Purbeck’s smuggling past revealed in new book

The story of how one of England’s most notorious 18th century smugglers lived in Worth Matravers in Dorset and hid the contraband in churches across Purbeck, is detailed in a new local history book.

Secret Swanage And Around by Andrew Jackson, published on Monday 8th July 2024 also includes tales about quarrying, the legacy of John Mowlem and George Burt, the relocation of old London buildings to Swanage, the Great Globe, Durlston Castle, Anvil Point Lighthouse, and Corfe Castle.

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Local history author Andrew Jackson uncovered many secrets on his walks around Swanage and Purbeck

Local history author Andrew Jackson uncovered many secrets on his walks around Swanage and Purbeck

Hoping to inspire others to explore

Secret Swanage is the latest in a series of local history books written by Andrew Jackson, which aims to uncover stories of remarkable characters, unusual events and tucked away historical buildings and locations.

With scores of photographs taken by the author on his frequent walks around Swanage and Purbeck, he is hoping that it will inspire more people to set out on foot and explore the living history that is all around.

From leftover bits of Victorian London which are scattered around Swanage to a barn now owned by the National Trust which used to be a smugglers’ haunt – as well as a hangman’s tree nearby – Andrew says that Purbeck is full of surprising links to the past.

AMBERLEY PUBLISHING

Gulliver’s Cottage in Worth Matravers, used by the notorious smuggler to run his Purbeck operation

“A wealth of fascinating local history”

Andrew Jackson said:

“Today, Swanage is a delightful Victorian seaside resort and tourist haven, but the roots of the town were originally with fishing, before quarrying became paramount in the 18th and 19th centuries and Swanage evolved into an important port.

“Perhaps it is because I have researched Dorset extensively, but there seems to be a wealth of fascinating local history in the area, more so than other counties.

“I have an interest in British history in general, but also how that helps to shape local places. I frequently walk in Swanage and Purbeck and have always loved the area, so I was delighted to make it a part of my book series.

“Although I thought I knew a lot about Swanage, some things that I discovered during my research really surprised me, like the scale of the smuggling trade around Purbeck and the strength of the links that Isaac Gulliver had to Swanage.”

Isaac Gulliver, cited by many modern historians as England’s most notorious smuggler at a time when most coastal communities sought to cheat the taxman, was eventually pardoned by King George III after uncovering an assassination plot against the monarch.

AMBERLEY PUBLISHING

The Old Watch House in Peveril Point Road, now next door to the Swanage Lifeboat Station, was built in 1827 to house the King’s Watch for the prevention of smuggling

Spectacular coastline was a smuggler’s dream

Andrew Jackson added:

“I knew that he was heavily involved in Dorset’s smuggling industry, but found out that Gulliver made a cottage beside the Post Office in Worth Matravers his home for a period in the 1700s, when he turned the village into a command centre for many local smuggling operations.

“He had a fleet of fifteen luggers, from which his men would unload the contraband on the coastline. What couldn’t be transported immediately was concealed and the rest was taken by packhorses and a fleet of horse-drawn wagons as far afield as the Midlands, London, Bristol and Bath.

“Steep cliffs and treacherous coastline restricted places where contraband could be landed between Durlston and St Aldhelm’s Head, so the quarries at Tilly Whim, Dancing Ledge, Hedbury, Seacombe and Winspit were used, as all five had sea platforms for lowering stone onto boats.

“However, once the smuggled goods were ashore, the spectacular coastline was a smuggler’s dream, providing numerous hidden coves and tunnels where the illegal imports could be concealed.”

AMBERLEY PUBLISHING

Before the swimming pool was created in the early 1900s, Dancing Ledge was used for landing contraband from France

Network of tunnels under the cliffs

Many of the smugglers were also quarrymen who had reason to hang around at the landing stages. They carried their lunch to work in a rush basket, which were then used at the end of the day for bringing back contraband from caves close to the quarries where they worked.

They were also familiar with numerous tunnels under the cliffs where contraband could be stored – it was said that the tunnels joined up and that it was possible to walk through them all the way to Swanage.

From Worth Matravers and Langton Matravers, smugglers were very adept at navigating the treacherous rocky paths leading down to the coast using farmers’ stone walls to help them feel their way in the darkness.

Revenue men weren’t as familiar with the paths and kept to the main tracks, which they marked with whitewashed stones.

However, the smugglers got wise to this and moved the stones so that they led towards the cliff edge, resulting in some revenue men falling to their deaths in the dark.

One of Gulliver’s holding areas for smuggled wine and brandy was Spyway Barn between Langton Matravers and Dancing Ledge, today a Grade II listed building owned by the National Trust and used as a tourist information point.

Spyway Barn, now a National Trust tourist information point, has a colourful smuggling history

Spyway Barn, now a National Trust tourist information point, has a colourful smuggling history

Spyway Barn’s colourful history

Andrew Jackson said:

“Inevitably the barn has a colourful history and 19th-century local folklore recalls that smugglers would often release a ferocious bull to terrorise the villagers, so that the authorities were kept busy trying to contain it, keeping prying eyes away as contraband was being loaded.

“The smuggled goods were then moved from Spyway Barn further inland to St George’s Church, Langton Matravers, where the goods were stored in the roof.

“Over time, as a result of this alternative use of church facilities, the whole structure became so severely weakened and unsafe that it was necessary to completely rebuild it.

“The smuggling fraternity had a strict code of conduct and any disloyalty or treachery was severely punished with beatings or even hangings.

“There is a lone sycamore tree, which can still be seen near Spyway Barn, that is reputed to have been used as a hangman’s tree, possibly for smugglers who had betrayed their fellows.”

A grateful King George III is supposed to have said, ‘Let Gulliver smuggle as much as he wants’ after an attempt on the king’s life was foiled, and Gulliver later became a wine merchant, banker, churchwarden and respected civic leader in Wimborne.

His legacy still lives on throughout Dorset and despite his powerful build and appearance, he was considered to be a gentleman. It is claimed his pistol, which is now a museum piece, was never used.

St George's Church, Langton Matravers
Colin Garner

St George’s Church in Langton Matravers had to be rebuilt after the weight of contraband hidden in the roof, damaged the building

St Nicholas’ Church, Studland, was one of many Purbeck village churches which was also used to stash smuggled goods
AMBERLEY PUBLISHING

St Nicholas’ Church, Studland, was also one of many Purbeck village churches which was used to stash smuggled goods

Further information

  • Secret Swanage and Around by Andrew Jackson, published by Amberley is available to buy from The Swanage Bookshop at 35 Station Road, Swanage
  • Other Dorset local history books published by Amberley

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